- 1 cards that start with 5
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- 3 What Amazon Hides: 5 Apps to Show Deals and Discounts to Save Money
- 4 5 Things You Have to Know Before Buying a Graphics Card
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- 6 Video Cards for Adobe Premiere CC 2015, CC 2014, CC, CS6, CS5.5 and CS5
cards that start with 5
A hand during a game of Shithead
Shithead is a card game similar to Paskahousu. The object of the game is to lose all of one's cards. [ 1 ]
The game, and variations of it, is popular in many countries amongst teenage and twenty-something travelers. [ citation needed ] Although the basic structure of the game generally remains constant there are often variations in the special roles that the rules assign to particular cards.
Shithead also referred as "Last Man Standing" is a card game for two to six players in which players aim to avoid being the last player to get rid of their cards.
The loser is usually referred to as the shit head. He must deal the next game and may be subject to some minor forfeit of the group's choice, for example wearing a special hat (often with the word shithead on it) or fetching the next round of drinks from the fridge. The shit head may also suffer in-game penalties.
Commonly, everybody not losing this game is regarded as being one of the "winners", although this role may also be awarded to the first person ridding all of their cards.
To date many variations of the game exist. Most basic rules however seem to include the wild cards 2, 7 and 10 and an ace as the highest card.
There are many variations of the rules, and there is no universally accepted set. (See the Values of Cards section, below)
From a standard, shuffled deck of 52 cards (jokers may also be included), each player is dealt a number of 'face down cards' in a row. (The number varies with player number and variation—often three per player, but sometimes more if there are fewer players.) They are not allowed to see or change these cards. On top of the 'face down cards', they are dealt the same number of 'face up cards'. A different number (usually three, but this also varies) is again dealt to each player (face down), and this becomes the player's 'hand'. Players are then allowed to switch the cards in their 'hand' with their 'face up cards' in an attempt to produce a strong set of 'face up cards' for later in the game. The dealer places the remaining cards face-down in the 'deck'. Players will lay their cards in turn in the 'pick up pile' or 'pile'.
After the cards have been dealt, players lay cards in turn onto the pick up pile, starting with the first player to claim he/she holds the lowest (weakest) card in his/her hand.
The lowest card will vary depending on the rules in force, but should be agreed on before play begins. It should be defined as the weakest card in the set—and is typically a 4. Red cards are considered lower than black cards—meaning that, for example, play might commonly start with a red 4 rather than a black 4. If two players hold a red 4 as the lowest card, the red hearts card is deemed to be lower. If no red or black version of the lowest card is held, players (led by the dealer) should consider the next lowest card, and so on.
A variation is the player to the left of the dealer plays first. Since the dealer is most likely the 'shithead' of the previous game, they are the one to play last. This adds 'punishment' to being the prior games 'shithead' or loser.
Another variation is that the first player to declare "4's down" upon seeing his/her face-up or hand cards gets to start the play. A further variation of this, based on player agility, sees the first player to physically put down the weakest card is seen as having started play.
Each player must lay a card (or two or more cards of the same number) equal to or higher in value than the one at the top of the pick up pile, then draw cards from the deck so they have at least 3 cards in their hand (unless the deck has run out of cards or they already have 3 or more cards in their hand). If they cannot play a card, they must pick up the pick-up pile (put it in their hand) and end their turn.
In some variations after a player has picked up the pile, the player who went before them (the player who made them pick up) gets to go again. This gives the player the option of giving all their low cards to the person who has picked up the pile, as they can feed the player all the cards higher than the original that made them pick up.
Some variations allow a player who has no moves to draw one card from the deck, instead of picking up the "pick up pile". Once the deck is gone, the player must pick up the pile instead. (In this variant, at the beginning of the game, the top of the deck is turned over instead of the lowest card being played. If a player cannot play on their first turn, and draws from the pile, they may swap this card with a face-up card. This is repeated until the player plays a card from their hand, or picks up the pile (can't draw from the deck or play a card from their hand).)
Some variations allow the player to "match" the drawn card, that is, if the card they draw has the same value as those the player has just played, he or she may play the newly drawn card as well. This is sometimes dependent on speed, with the ability to "match" the drawn card becoming void if the next player has already lain a card.
When players have no more cards in their hand, and the deck is empty, they may proceed to play from their three face up cards. The cards laid form a pile which must be picked up by any player who cannot beat the most recently played card. (Note also that it is quite common to allow players to pick up this pile even if they "do" have a card in their hand that would allow them to beat the most recently played card. This arguably increases the level of strategy involved in the game). Picking up the pile can often put a player at a great disadvantage when many cards have been played as they will have more cards to lose than other players. Even so, it is still possible to quickly recover from this handicap.
Aside from the basic order of play, the core aspect of Shithead is the 'Special Cards' (Sometimes called Magic Cards). These vary greatly depending on local or personal variation, though the core of the rules remains the same. There are a number of Special Cards which recur in most versions of the game, though which card has this effect can vary.
Players should pick, choose and try a set of rules as they see fit. It is possible to form a game which involves a considerable amount of strategy, or choose a simpler version which relies on luck. Below are details of the most popular Special Cards.
Joker: In most games the Joker card is not always used, but where it is, it is the highest non-special card in the game, and can be beaten only by another Joker, or a special card which can be played on anything. One of the variations to the use of the Joker sees the Joker being played on any card. Once played, all players pass the cards in their hand to the player to their right. The impact of this rule is that players which have played all their cards and would normally be out of the game, can see themselves back in the game. Another variation is the 'Bastard' Card. When played the person who has set the Joker down can choose any of the other players to pick up all of the cards on the table. Unfortunately this can backfire as if the chosen player also holds a Joker, they can then play that card, and then the original Joker player then has to pick up all of the cards on the table and those cards which have been 'destroyed' or 'burned'. See below for the description of 'burn cards'. Another variation on the 'Bastard' card is the next person in direction of play has to pick up the pile even if they themselves hold a Joker.
Aces: Aces are high (meaning that they are stronger than the Jack, Queen and King). Depending on the variation being played, Aces can either be used to nominate another player to go out of the normal sequence of play or have no particular effect. When used to nominate another player the player who played the card chooses the next player irrespective of the normal order. They can be beaten by certain special cards, detailed below.
Burn Cards: Sometime called 'Nuke Cards'. These are cards that remove the existing pile from play permanently. Burn cards are usually either four cards of the same value played in a row (not always necessarily by the same player) or one specific card (Invariably a 10) that can be played on its own. Burn cards can typically be played on any card. For example the sequence Q, K, K, burn card means that the pile will be put to the side (face down). An example of the four-card burn would be: Player 1—J; Player 2—J,J; Player 3—J. The pile would be put to the side (face down) and player 3 would have another go. In some variations burn cards may not be played on the reverse card.
Possible Burn card face values: 10
Four of a kind: If four of the same card are put on the pile they act as a burn card. This can be done by one or more players, for example player 1 plays a jack, then player 2 plays 3 jacks thus burning the pile. They must be all together without 'Invisible' cards.
Reverse Card: The Reverse Card reverses the standard rules of ascending card value on the pile for one turn, meaning the next player must play an equal or lower card on their next turn—or another reverse card (does not re-reverse back to usual play, but rather causes the reverse to persist to the next player in the sequence of play). This is particularly useful when high cards are known to dominate opponent's hands. For example consider the sequence 4, 5, 5, 7 (where 7 is the reverse card) which means that the next person must lay lower (or equal to) 7—usually they would need to lay a higher or equal card. Again, rules vary widely, but a choice must be made as to whether the reverse card can be played on 'anything' or in ascending order on cards which are lower which is more common, or whether the next player must play a card of a lower value than the card underneath, known as 'transparent sevens', so for "4, 5, 5, 7" a player would have to play card lower than a 5. For example, while it is certainly always legal to play 4, 5, 5, 7 it is not, depending on the house rules in force, always legal to play Q, K, K, 7. A subtle variation on this played in the Midlands is that when a 7 is played, as normal, the next player has to play a 7 or 6 or below. But if the next person plays another 7 (now 2 7s on the pile), the player after them has to play either another 7 or 5 or below. If this next player plays a 3rd 7 in sequence the next player after him has to play 4 or below. In the event of four 7s being played consecutively then the pile is burnt in accordance with the four of a kind burn rule.
Possible Reverse card face values: 9, 7
Permanent Reverse Card This has the same effect, but is permanent, until another card of the same value is played.
Possible Permanent Reverse card face values:
Play Again Card This card enables the player who played it to have another (mandatory) turn. The Play Again card can be played on any card.
Possible Play Again card face values:
Skip Card: When one of these cards is played the next player's turn is skipped, and play continues with the following player. Optionally, when two or more of this card are played at the same time the number of consecutive players that are skipped may be equal to the number of cards played (e.g. when three Skip cards are played, the next three players miss their turn). Depending on the number of players, this card may result in the player who laid the cards missing his or her own turn, or taking another turn immediately. This can be cumulative: a skip card played upon one other has a double effect, played on two others skips three turns, etc. This can be used where if a second, third or fourth skip card played skips two, three or four turns, regardless of any cards played between the skip cards.
Possible Skip card face values: Jack, 5, 7
Rotation Card (Jack or 9) Changes the rotation of the game (e.g. clockwise to counterclockwise). Playing more than one rotation card may or may not have the same effect as playing one.
Possible Rotation card face values: Queen, Jack, 9
Mirror/Transparent Card: The mirror card simply 'mirrors' whatever card is below it in the pile, meaning the next player has to beat the card which is played before the mirror card. Mirror cards also apply to special cards; for example a mirror card played on a reverse card means that the mirror card then acts as a reverse card. The mirror card can typically be played on any card. A Mirror card may not be a part of a four-card burn (5, 5, Mirror card, 5 would not count, nor would 5, 5, Mirror, 5, 5), however this is not the case in some variants. Commonly, 8 or 3 is used as a mirror card.
Possible Mirror/Transparent card face values: 3, 5, Jack
Restart Card: The restart (or sometimes 'reset') card (often a 2) can be played on any card and 'resets' the pack so that the next player will be able to play any card (even the weakest).
Possible Restart card face values: 2
Pick-Up / Vengeance / Bastard card: The pick-up card (often a 3) can be played on any card to make the next player in turn pick up the pile (except the pick-up card itself). The only cards that can top this are:
- If another pick-up card (or the mirror card, rendering itself the equivalent of a pick-up card) is played by the next person, meaning next player must pick up the cards, OR;
- The burn card is laid down, removing the pile from play.
- The restart card is played.
In some games, the player who plays this card can choose who must pick up the pile. In this case, the name Vengeance Card is more often used.
Please see under 'Joker'
Possible Pick-Up/Vengeance card face values: 3, Joker
Based on these simple rules players can create arrangements for many styles of game, ranging from extremely tactical to complete luck (as in Blind Shithead (See Variations, below)).
An example Shithead special card arrangement could be:
This is one of the more common arrangements, and is a good version to start learning Shithead. Some versions have almost exclusively special cards and keeping track of which card does what can become very difficult, and can detract from the game rather than making it more interesting. In creating their own arrangements, players should be sparing with which special cards they choose to include, and in assigning the effects to cards they should choose a spread of high and low cards to take special effects.
if on the final turn of the game, when only two players are playing the before last player puts down his last card, he has not won: if the last player has an ace as final card he wins the game. This move may also be called reverse shithead.
Once a player has lost all of their hand cards and the deck is empty they then play their face up cards. At this stage, other players have the advantage of seeing which cards are available to the player. This means they are often able to play cards that cannot be beaten in order to make an opponent pick up the pile.
Once a player has lost their face up cards they are left with their three 'blind' face down cards of which they can choose any to play (one at a time). If the blind card does not beat the card on the pile, the user must pick up the pile as before. Depending on the agreed rules, players either must or need not reveal a blind card if it does not beat the previously played card. Further variations do not require that all three face-up cards must be played before face-down cards can be selected, but only the face-up card which covers the face-down card the player wishes to use. This adds a gambling element to play as players must decide whether to use a face-up card which will guarantee success, or risk using a face-down card and keeping the high-value face-up card for when it may be more useful. It is another example of the versatility of the rules of the game: players can select and agree on which aspects they like for purposes of fun and strategy.
When players are using their face up or face down cards and cannot go (i.e. they cannot or do not want to beat the previous pile card), they should pick up the pile and the card that they would have played from the face up/face down cards. However, some variations hold that this is only true for the face-down cards.
Play continues in this fashion until only one player has cards remaining.
Some other possible rules include:
- Ultimate Shithead - It is not possible to finish on a wild card (*Reset, *Burn, *Invisible, *Bastard) or and Ace. This makes the end game far more of a challenge.
- It is not legal to play a Jack, Queen or King on a 5.
- Playing a 5 means all players must pass their hand (not the face up/face down cards) to the person BEFORE them in the turn sequence.
- It is not legal to finish your cards with either a 6 or a 9 (assuming 6 and 9 are not in use for other purposes). If the last card a player holds (either as a hand card or face down card) and plays is either 6 or 9, they must pick up the pile.
- If one player plays a card, and then draws another card from the deck (to complete their hand of 3), they may play this newly picked up card if it has the same value as the one they just played ("matching").
- Once during each game, each player can blindly take a card from the deck and attempt to play it. This is often known as the 'Hand of God' rule. They must show it to all players. If it beats the previous card, play continues. If it does not beat the previous card, the player picks up the pile as normal—including the hand of god card. Some variants on Shithead allow players to do this as often as they want.
- The Queen of Spades may be played (at any time), which means everyone moves their face down and face up cards clockwise round the table (so you get the cards of the player on your right). This can be countered by the player who plays the Queen, if they play 2 or more Queens, and the Queen of Spades is not on the top, e.g. play the Queen of Spades and the Queen of Hearts together, with the Queen of Hearts on the top of the play pile, however in order to do this it must be legal to play a Queen in the current situation (unlike playing the Queen of Spades on its own or on the top when it can be played at any time). Playing this rule often results in players putting low cards in their face up pile at the beginning of the game in order to disadvantage their fellow players, should the queen be played.
- When a player plays 3 sixes (denoting 666—the devil's number) then next person to play must pick up all the cards in the deck that are not in someones hand or face-up/down cards (i.e. the pick-up pile, discard/burn pile and all previous cards played) unless they have the fourth 6 to complete the set. A special card may not be used to constitute any of the 6s in this rule.
- A wild, or 'linking', card, (usually a 2) replaces the restart card. The linking card may be used to extend a players turn. For example: if the top card is a Jack, a player could play a normally legal card, like a queen, then play a linking card, and then any another card. This is not mandatory, and may be done several times in a turn, making the possibility to play many cards in a single turn.
- The 9 of Spades can be used as a 'swap around' card, in which when the 9 of spades is placed on the pile at any time, each player will pass his handheld cards to the player on their left. This is merely a variation of the aforementioned Queen of Spades rule, but for the fact that NO card can prevent the swap taking place, including burn cards.
- Placing a one-eyed card (Jc, Jh or Kd) reverses the direction of play back to whoever played the previous card. The one-eyed cards have no additional 'powers' and thus have to be played legally, i.e. on a lower card. This variation allows for tactical maneuvering when the locations of the higher cards become known.
- In one variation known as Not Euchre, it is legal to pick up the pile whether or not you can beat it and, therefore, whether or not your opponent knows you can play. Picking up the pile can lead to an advantageous hand or can be used as a counter attack.
- When a jack is played then the card played after must be of the same suit.
- "Confusion" card(s) are determined at the start of the game, e.g. The Black Jack's, any player who gets this card in their hand can use it at any time to swap the hands between any two players (including themselves). once used the card is removed from play.
- A further wild card (possibly an 8) is used as a "lower than" card—whereby the next player must play a card equal or lower to the card before the "lower than" card, rather than equal or higher as is normal. For example, a 4 is played, followed by the "lower than" card—the next card must then be a 2, 3 or 4 (or another wild card). See Reverse.
- The "No Ace on a Face" rule means an Ace cannot be put in any cards bearing a face (K, Q or J).
Few versions include more than 2 or 3 of these additional rules (if any) as they can become extremely confusing, and break the flow of the game. Experienced Shithead players generally do not recommend these rules to beginners.
For players wishing to bet, the game starts with each player paying a stake to the central pot, the first person out will receive this pot. Additionally they will receive:
- One stake from the second person out,
- Two stakes from the third person,
- Three stakes from the fourth person out,
The game being worth n+n(n+1)/2 stakes where n is the number of players.
cards that start with 5
Large Aa- Zz flash cards - these are Aa-Zz flash cards with each letter on one sheet and with two words that start with the letter on another sheet. They are designed to be printed out, placed back to back and laminated.
Need Phonics Worksheets?
- print phonics worksheets or make your own worksheets
game cards with no pictures - print out the sheets and let the students draw pictures. Then have the student assemble them (fold over and paste) and play a game. This is good practice for the students and a lot easier than making 16-20 sets of cards yourself.
Mark's note: the cards all have the same backings, so you can mix them up for practicing various different things
More Short Vowels: These are cards with the vowel moved to the middle of short words for deepening understanding and furthering students' understanding of vowels
Just need alphabet cards to print?
Here are two print-outs:
Try these cards - Reading Cards Set One Reading cards Set Two These are cards with a short sentence and a picture to help the students understand the meaning/verify what they read is correct. They are good to use when the students are ready to move from single words to sentences. All of the vocabulary was chosen from words using only short vowel and hard consonant sounds. (There are a few sight words, such as the and colors.) You may want to let two or three students work on one card in the beginning to let them help each other and instill confidence and let them enjoy reading English.
Mark's note: For young learners (4yrs-6yrs) I do a letter of the day to start them off. They say the letter and then learn 2 words that start with that letter. I then repeat the alphabet focusing on lower case and have them recall 2 words that start with that letter and then teach them the reading. For young learners (6yrs+) I start them off with both 2 words and the letters reading. I spend about 5 minutes each lesson on this and it breaks up the class nicely as a transient portion of the lesson. Here are some cards and handouts to get you started.
What Amazon Hides: 5 Apps to Show Deals and Discounts to Save Money
5 Things You Have to Know Before Buying a Graphics Card
When it comes to upgrading your computer, there are few investments you can make that are better than a dedicated graphics card Can Shared Graphics Finally Compete with a Dedicated Graphics Card? Can Shared Graphics Finally Compete with a Dedicated Graphics Card? There are two kinds of graphics cards for PCs: dedicated and shared. Read More — especially when you’re playing games or editing video. Realistic 3D graphics and advanced video renderings aren’t cheap.
But buying a new graphics card isn’t a straightforward process. If you know these five things before you pick one out, though, you’ll know everything you need for making a good decision.
This is the hard truth about graphics cards: if you want top performance, you’ll have to pay top dollar. And the highest-performing cards are very expensive. You can easily pay up to $600, $800, or even $1,000 to get a world-class graphics setup.
Of course, you don’t need to pay this much for great performance because there’s something called diminishing returns. At some point, you end up getting less value for each additional dollar you spend.
When do diminishing returns start? Some people say it starts around $500. If you spend more than that, the improved features aren’t much better and are only worth getting if you want to play games on extremely high resolutions or with a large multi-monitor setup Two or More Monitors for an Extended Desktop: 3 Things You Should Check First Two or More Monitors for an Extended Desktop: 3 Things You Should Check First You'd think that all you'd have to do is plug any video display into the computer port on your laptop or PC. Well, it's a little more complicated than that. Read More .
For the most part, mid-range offerings — meaning graphics cards in the $200 range — are more than enough for the average consumer.
2. Decide Your Needs Before Shopping
Once you start shopping for a graphics card, it can be easy to get caught up in model numbers, proprietary technologies, processor cores, and the huge number of different statistics that come with each graphics card.
In the grand scheme, these things actually aren’t all that useful to know about for the vast majority of people. What does matter is deciding what exactly you want to do, and then figuring out which specs will help you do it.
For example, do you want to be able to play Fallout 4 on PC? Or are you hoping to spend a lot of time with Civilization: Beyond Earth? Look at the graphics requirements of the games that you think you’ll be playing and see what they require. Use that as a baseline.
Think about how much money you want to spend, too. You’ll probably have to adjust your initial budget once or twice while shopping, but it’s a good idea to start with a price in mind.
Once you have an idea of what you’re going to need and how much you want to spend, check www.videocardbenchmark.com to see how different cards compare at a given price point. Also look at Tom’s Hardware’s gaming benchmarks to see how specific cards perform on the games that you want to play.
As I mentioned before, every graphics card has a slew of difficult-to-understand statistics that describe it. However, you can ignore most of them and just focus on a couple.
One of the most important is RAM, which is how much memory your graphics card has to work with. (This is separate from your system RAM, which is used for non-graphics-related gaming operations.) Obviously, the more RAM your card has, the more computations it will be able to make and the better graphics you’ll get.
Even more important than the amount of RAM, however, is the type of RAM. DDR3 RAM used to be the standard for high-performance graphics cards, but technology has moved beyond that. As of today, the best type of RAM you can go with is GDDR5, like you’ll find on the EVGA GeForce GTX 750Ti and the Sapphire Radeon NITRO R9 380.
In essence, the difference between DDR3 and GDDR5 is memory bandwidth What Is High Bandwith Memory, and Do You Really Need It? What Is High Bandwith Memory, and Do You Really Need It? What is High Bandwidth Memory? What problems will it fix, and do we really need it? Read More — more information can pass through graphics cards with newer RAM technology.
4. Reference vs. Non-Reference Coolers
If you aren’t a graphics card enthusiast, it’s likely that you’ve never heard of “reference9rdquo; or “non-reference9rdquo; coolers. Before we can explain the difference, you need to understand how graphics cards are sold.
Manufacturers, like AMD and Nvidia, make the actual cards and sell them directly to consumers, but they also sell them to other companies who make modifications and sell their own versions of cards. The cards from the manufacturer are called “reference9rdquo; cards while any modifications make them “non-reference.9rdquo;
And one aspect that’s frequently modified is the cooling system. Reference cooling systems generally have a single fan offset to one side, which will send hot air out the back of your computer case.
Non-reference cooling systems are more likely to have two fans mounted so that they blow hot air directly away from the graphics card and into the computer case. This means there will be more stress on your computer’s cooling system How Heat Affects Your Computer, And Should You Be Worried? How Heat Affects Your Computer, And Should You Be Worried? From time to time, we all get concerned about our computer's temperature. But should we be worried? Read More to prevent overheating, but non-reference coolers tend to be quieter and more effective.
To choose between the two, you may want to monitor the temperature of your CPU PC Operating Temperatures: How Hot Is Too Hot? PC Operating Temperatures: How Hot Is Too Hot? Excessive heat can affect your computer's performance and your hard drive's lifespan. But how can you tell if it's overheating or just hot? Read More while you’re gaming. If it gets up to 55 degrees Celsius, you’ll want to push hot air out the back of your case, but if you have a solid cooling system in place, going with an aftermarket non-reference cooler will give you a quieter boost to your graphics.
5. Always Check For Compatibility
With any graphics card, there’s always potential for compatibility problems. Common issues include things like the power source (Does it need PCIe inputs? How many amps does it need? How much power does it consume under load?) and the size of the card itself (Will it fit inside your computer case?).
Pro Tip: Your motherboard will need a PCIe 16-slot, and you’ll have to measure the distance from this slot to any components that could interfere with your graphics card. Compare this to the length and width of the card (available online or from the manufacturer) and make sure you have a little extra room all around.
You’ll also need to figure out if the card will need to draw from an external power supply Power Supplies Explained: How To Pick The Perfect PSU For Your Computer Power Supplies Explained: How To Pick The Perfect PSU For Your Computer Most geeks interested in buying new hardware or building a new system think first of the processor, graphics card and perhaps the hard drive. These components have the most impact on performance, so they are. Read More . Some lower-end cards get enough power from the PCI port on your motherboard, but you should plan on hooking up your power supply to the card as well. If it needs more power, your power supply will need to use the proper cables, or you’ll have to find an adapter.
Also, you’ll need to make sure that there’s enough power being put out of the supply to keep everything in your computer up and running.
Never Forget: Do Your Own Research
If you know how you’re going to deal with each of the factors above, you should have no problem finding the right graphics card for your computer. Spend some time on forums reading about the performance of particular cards with your preferred games. Check out benchmarking sites. Decide how much you’re willing to pay.
Once you’ve done that, you should be set!
What factors do you take into account when buying a new graphics card? What other questions do you have about upgrading? Share your thoughts below!
Image Credits:thinking man by Ollyy via Shutterstock
cards that start with 5
Last week, Twitter introduced a newcomer to its line of Promoted Tweets. This unit is called a Website Card, and it has a lot of potential to drive traffic from your Twitter profile to your website.
In case the name confused you, Website Cards can direct traffic to more than just your website’s homepage. You can also send users to a specific product page, a blog post announcement, or a landing page created specifically for this ad type.
So what does a Website Card look like? The image at the top of this post is an example provided by Twitter for the website of a coffee bar called The Barista Bar. As you can see, the ad shows up in both the mobile and web feeds, and features a caption, linked website title, and the ‘Promoted’ badge.
Ready to get started? The first thing you need to do, if you haven’t already, is set up your business on Twitter Ads by visiting business.twitter.com. Once you’ve done that, follow the steps below:
1. Access the ads tool. You can do this either using the dropdown menu on your Twitter account, or by logging in directly to ads.twitter.com.
2. Under the Creatives tab, select cards. Then toggle to Website as the card type. Click the button to start creating your first Website Card.
3. Input the creative elements of your card. You’ll need an image that gives the viewer a good idea of what they’ll find on your website (240 x 96 pixels), the title of the page your card links to, and the URL.
4. Name your ad with a convention that makes sense for the campaign it will be a part of in your Twitter Ads account.
5. Preview how the tweet will look on mobile and web, and click to create it when you’re satisfied.
You’re all done! Now that your Website Card has been created, you have a variety of options for what to do with it, which you’ll find on the next screen after you click to create. You can start composing a tweet with it right away, you can edit it, you can clone it, and you can click to preview the website your card directs to. This is a good thing to do in order to make sure you’re sending people to the right place, and that your ad is a good indicator of what visitors will find there.
If you are ready to compose a tweet, you’ll find that you can choose to deliver it as you would any normal tweet, or you can choose to promote it to a targeted group. You can also choose the ad campaign it will be part of, and elect to post it right away, or schedule it for later.
If you want to come back and work with your new Website Card later, it will be waiting for you in the Cards area under your Creatives tab when you return.
Give the new Website Cards from Twitter a try, and let us know what you think!
Video Cards for Adobe Premiere CC 2015, CC 2014, CC, CS6, CS5.5 and CS5
Article Updated on 07/22/2016
Software Updated on 12/26/2016
Written by David Knarr of Studio 1 Productions
FAQ section is near the end of the article.
I will be updating this article during the next week.
NOTE: You no longer need to use the cuda.bat program to enable GPU acceleration with Adobe Premiere CC 2015.
Adobe Premiere CS5, CS5.5, CS6, CC and CC 2014
Adobe After Effects CS6, CC and CC 2014
Adobe Media Encoder CC and CC 2014
Adobe SpreedGrade CC and CC 2014
Adobe Prelude CC 2014
PLEASE NOTE: At Studio 1 Productions, we do not sell video cards, Adobe products or other products mentioned in this article.
So we are not trying to sell you anything by providing this article or the unlock software. We invite you to take a look at the products we do offer, simply place your mouse over the products link at the top of the page or click on the products link at the top of the page.
This article will ONLY cover using NVidia Video Cards with CUDA Acceleration
Even though starting with CS6 you can use AMD video cards with OpenCL, from what other people are saying about using AMD video cards with OpenCL is that they don't seem to provide the performance that a NVidia card does with CUDA acceleration. At this time I do not have any access to AMD cards, so this article will be about NVidia Video Cards.
There are two modes for the Mercury Playback Engine for NVidia video cards. They are:
B) Mercury Playback Engine Software Only
The GPU Acceleration is for accelerated playback, GPU accelerated effects, deinterlacing, blending modes, scaling and rendering the previews and final output.
Adobe Premiere CC 2015, CC 2014, CC, CS6, CS5.5 and CS5 has a setting called the Maximum Render Quality mode (or MRQ).
1) Open up Adobe Premiere
2) Click on Sequence at the top of the screen
3) Then select Sequence Settings
4) At the bottom of the window select Maximum Render Quality and click Okay
When Adobe releases an update to Premiere, you will need to unlock the video card again , as they tend over write the cuda_supported_cards.txt file, which is the file that holds the name of your video card. (Unless your are running Premiere CC 2014 version 8.1 or higher.)
The decoding of video footage is still handled by the CPU and not the GPU. So if you are using heavily compressed video, such as AVCHD or h.264, you will need a fast processor, since the video card won’t help with the decoding of the video. Also, keep in mind, that if you use a non-Mercury Playback Engine enabled plug-in or effect, the GPU on the video card won’t help you with rendering that effect.
Each NVIDIA GPU has a certain number of CUDA cores, which is the computing engine in the NVIDIA GPU.
The Mercury Playback Engine requires the NVIDIA video card to have at least 1 GB of memory or more. Anything less, the Mercury Playback Engine will NOT work in the GPU accelerated mode. It will work in the Software mode, but you want it to work in the GPU accelerated mode.
- The lower end cards generally come with DDR3 memory
- The mid-level cards can come with either DDR3 or DDR5. In this case, go for the DDR5 version
- The higher end cards come with DDR5 memory.
DDR5 memory is faster than DDR3 memory, when all things are equal.